Guidelines for Planting Bareroot Trees
Directly on to the Job Site

Studies have shown that bareroot trees can often out grow container grown trees. Trees planted from bareroot are not likely to have encircling roots. Once the tree is established, it continues to grow unrestricted with its roots all facing in the proper direction. There are a number of reasons why planting bareroot trees directly onto the job site makes sense. The cost of tree is substantially less, there are no containers to recycle and trees without soil is much easier to carry up or down slopes.

It is all in the timing of the planting. You just have to make sure you do it while the trees are dormant. Just follow these simple guidelines and see how much money you and your client can save.

You need to make sure that you are ready for the arrival of the trees . Be prepared to store your bareroot trees in moist coarse nursery sand, and/or, pine or fir heartwood chips. Trees may also be heeled-in in sandy loam soil. All of these storage mediums should be previously irrigated, thoroughly moist, and well drained.

These storage piles can be conveniently located on the jobsite near the planned point of installation. If trees are to be stored at a central location, they can be loaded on to a truck or pick up and off loaded as needed. Take note, that if this method is followed, the trees must remain completely covered and not be exposed to the wind or sun until they are finally planted.

Planting pits for the trees can either be dug by hand or with an auger. Ideally, the diameter of the hole should be the same or a few inches wider than the root mass of the tree. Generally trees with less than ¾" trunk caliper are planted by hand. Trees with ¾" caliper can be planted in holes dug with an 18" auger. Trees with trunk calipers with 1" to 1 ¼" may require a 36" auger.

The depth of the planting pit should be only a few inches deeper than the length of the root mass itself. However, it is seldom that you should have to dig more than two feet deep.

Make sure that the planting pit has good drainage. Fill the pit with about one foot of water, let it drain. Fill it with water again; if it takes longer than three or four hours the second time, you more than likely have a drainage problem.

Make sure the tree is planted at the proper soil level. If it is a seedling, the previous soil level is apparent by closely inspecting the tree, just above the root system. The complexion of the bark is noticeably different. If you are planting a grafted tree, make sure the graft or bud union is above the ground.

Back fill with native soil or a native soil with any necessary amendments. Adding any products containing redwood are not advised, unless you can be sure they have been leached.

Once having planted the tree establish a water basin around the planting pit and water it in. Do not plant a number of trees before you water them in, unless the planting pit and backfill soil has been pre-moistened. Planting any tree into dry soil can suck the life out of it.

Fill the basin with water, let it drain. Fill it once more and then, do not water it for perhaps another two weeks.

If you have already installed a sprinkler system, resist the urge to simply put the freshly planted bareroot trees on the system, until they completely leaf out. We suggest that you hand water the trees until such time as they are completely leafed out. If the trees must be put on an established irrigation system, each tree should have its own sprinkler head that can be adjusted to give the trees water as it is needed. The primary cause of mortality on bareroot trees is over watering.

Once the trees have completely leafed out, and they are being irrigated by an automatic system, you are home free. You can achieve optimum growth by giving the trees increased water in the hot summer months and decrease water in the winter months, (the water needs of deciduous trees is minimal while they are dormant, as they are not photosynthesizing).


The previous information is derived from our general practices here at Orange County Nursery, Inc. Each situation is unique and may require different adaptations of our practices. These are only guidelines, following them doesn't necessarily guaranty success. We, at Orange County Nursery Inc. make no promises about this information and accept no responsibility for its use or misuse.